What Size Cleat For 3/4 Hardwood Floor
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Mail subject area: what size cleats? Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 12:54 pm | |||
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 iii:42 pm Posts: 3 | Hi, I'one thousand planning on installing 3/4" solid german beech to a 5/8" t&yard plywood subfloor. Are 1.five" cleats the right size to use?
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Gary | Mail service field of study: Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:21 pm | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | |||
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Floorguy | Post subject: Posted: Wednesday Aug 29, 2007 5:51 pm | ||
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 v:44 am Posts: 3509 Location: Austin | I'd be afraid the 2" would blow out the bottom of the five/eight, loosing l% of their belongings ability, leading to many more than squeaks then if they had used one½" cleats. _________________ When you desire it washed WRIGHT www.AustinFloorguy.com | ||
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Gary | Mail service subject area: Posted: Thu Aug thirty, 2007 iii:05 am | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | Perry said ," I'd be agape the 2" would accident out the lesser of the 5/8, loosing 50% of their holding power." What has never been verified Perry, is the assertion that when a staple penetrates through the lesser of the subfloor, that it loses some of it's belongings power. I am failing to see is any science behind this. A 15.5 judge staple has a much thinner shank than a smash or a cleat and does non "blow out" the lumber when it exits the backside. At least not to the degree a larger shanked smash or cleat would. And then, please explicate how having a 1/four" or so of staple/fastener exposed on the underside hinders that staples ability to hold the flooring too as a shorter staple? Also, if the installer wanted, they could layout the joist locations and make a practiced endeavor to blast to those equally well as in between. And if NOFMA approves i&i/2" fasteners for nailing downward 3/4" solid over a 3/4" plywood underlayment over a slab, they're business concern is that the fastener does Non penetrate through the backside of the underlayment, which would damage the vapor barrier underneath. Simply when recommending fasteners for that same flooring over a crawl space, they recommend 2" fasteners. Aforementioned floor, same subfloor. If 1&one/2" is "only as good", why recommend 2" at all? | ||
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Floorguy | Post subject area: Re: what size cleats? Posted: Thu Aug thirty, 2007 vii:39 am | ||
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am Posts: 3509 Location: Austin | ridley wrote: Hi, I'thousand planning on installing 3/4" solid german beech to a v/eight" t&m plywood subfloor. Are one.5" cleats the correct size to utilize? I'thousand pretty certain he was talking cleats and not staples. Did a google trying to find some on-line documentation of the information I got in NWFA inspector preparation. I did find on-line, a lot of posts most the fastener penetrating the subfloor is the cause of squeaks, but nothing well-nigh holding power, yet. A lot of the links google brought up, are crashing my browser?????? _________________ When you want it done WRIGHT www.AustinFloorguy.com | ||
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ridley | Post subject: Posted: Thu Aug thirty, 2007 12:07 pm | ||
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 3:42 pm Posts: iii | I am going with cleats - the manufacturer recommends them over staples and I have humidity fluctuations. The manufacturer, Pollmeier, says to use either 1.5" or 1.75" cleats. Never mentions the ii" size. So I am at a loss. Go with the manufacturer or go with NOMFA? I am as well concerned that 2" cleats would penetrate the subfloor. Could the natural language on this product be lower than other brands? It measures 7/sixteen" (measuring from the bottom of the board to the pinnacle of the tongue). Thanks for your help. | ||
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Gary | Post subject: Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 12:28 pm | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 vii:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | Always follow the manufacturer'southward instructions. NOFMA'south recommendations are "generic" and typically refer to NOFMA member unfinished flooring. With the world economy, flooring comes from all over and can vary in pattern and specs. The tongue on your floors may very well be designed differently. I have seen mention of i&3/4" cleats and staples simply oasis't ever seen them in my distributors. | ||
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94521 | Mail service subject: Posted: Thu Aug thirty, 2007 v:07 pm | ||
Joined: Sunday Jul 15, 2007 11:02 pm Posts: 16 | In Bollinger's book, he recommends driving into the joists when possible to make a more than solid fllor. Fifty-fifty 2" cleats into three/4" floor and subfloor is barely going to accomplish the joists. Do you pros out at that place endeavour to hitting the joists? | ||
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Floorguy | Mail service field of study: Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:59 pm | ||
Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am Posts: 3509 Location: Austin | The angle of the floor fastener, is non going to let the joist provide any assistance. No penetration into the joist worth mentioning, unless your going to use a 3" long nail. _________________ When you want it done WRIGHT www.AustinFloorguy.com | ||
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Gary | Post bailiwick: Posted: Thu Aug xxx, 2007 11:44 pm | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | Quote: No penetration into the joist worth mentioning, unless your going to utilize a 3" long nail. Or you take i/two" plywood subfloor! | ||
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94521 | Post subject: Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 vii:10 pm | ||
Joined: Sun Jul fifteen, 2007 xi:02 pm Posts: sixteen | Checked the bottom of my subfloor; the 2" cleats practice blow out the bottom of the plywood, only the pieces are by and large just the size of toothpicks. There definitely isn't plenty cleat exposed to grab the joists. Luckily, I don't seem to have any squeaks. P.S. This is with 3/iv" CDX and nine/xvi" engineered. | ||
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Gary | Post subject: Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 2:05 pm | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | Quote: This is with iii/4" CDX and 9/xvi" engineered. Now imagine with 3/4" plywood subfloor and 3/4" solid flooring. Almost zero blow through with 2" cleats or staples. | ||
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spensar | Mail service subject: Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 6:50 am | ||
Joined: Monday Oct 09, 2006 eleven:01 pm Posts: 22 | As long equally there is enough subfloor for the fastener to become into is there any downside to using a 2" or ii.five" over 1.5" or i.75" if the guage of the fastener remains the same? | ||
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Gary | Post subject: Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:06 am | ||
Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm Posts: 4373 Location: Antioch, CA. 94509 | That's what nosotros're trying to determine. NOFMA does recommended when face nailing the last few courses on a 3/four" install, to locate the joists and nail into those using casing or screw shanked floor nails. I call back it's over kill unless it's 5+" wide plank flooring. I do know using too short of fasteners volition cause failure in terms of loose, noisy floor. | ||
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spensar | Mail service subject: Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 12:45 pm | ||
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:01 pm Posts: 22 | Gary wrote: That'southward what we're trying to determine. NOFMA does recommended when confront nailing the last few courses on a 3/iv" install, to locate the joists and blast into those using casing or spiral shanked flooring nails. I think information technology'due south over kill unless it's 5+" wide plank flooring. I do know using also short of fasteners volition cause failure in terms of loose, noisy flooring. I don't take the floor experience, but just thinking it through from general experience with plywood and wood, I don't see where there would be blowout on the underside of a plywood subfloor. It mainly compresses to make room for the fastner. The modern air powered injected fastners are thinner than the nails of erstwhile likewise, and the speed the shoot out makes for a clean entry. Only IMHO. I've got 16, 18 and framing nailers - maybe I'll shoot up some bit 3/4 inch and i/two outside plywood to meet what happens. | ||
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